CHEF SERIES
Meet the Chef Redefining Asian-American Cooking in Washington, D.C: Erik Bruner-Yang
Chef Erik Bruner-Yang
From his days in an indie band touring to the heart of D.C.'s H Street corridor, Chef Erik Bruner-Yang's path to the kitchen was anything but straight, and that's exactly what makes his cooking so compelling. As the chef-owner of Maketto, a three-level communal marketplace combining restaurant, retail, and cafe, Erik has spent over a decade building a space that reflects his identity, his community, and his belief that great food lives in the in-between.
Born in Taiwan and raised in the States, Erik spent his early years studying piano and eventually forming the indie band Pash while at Mary Washington University. Restaurants were a way to fund the music, until the kitchen became the creative outlet itself. A turning point came when his grandfather in Taiwan fell ill, pulling him back to the island each year and deepening his connection to Taiwanese cuisine. In 2011, he opened Toki Underground, the ramen shop that introduced D.C. to the format and earned Eater D.C.'s Best New Restaurant that same year. Maketto followed, along with multiple James Beard nominations and a reputation as one of the city's most original culinary voices.
In this Chef Series interview, Erik talks about what the kitchen and music have in common, how his Taiwanese American and Cambodian American heritage shapes his cooking, and why the consistency behind Maketto's food comes down to the people, not the systems. He also shares the must-order dishes for a first-time guest and the two words he'd give any chef just starting out.
Born in Taiwan and raised in the States, Erik spent his early years studying piano and eventually forming the indie band Pash while at Mary Washington University. Restaurants were a way to fund the music, until the kitchen became the creative outlet itself. A turning point came when his grandfather in Taiwan fell ill, pulling him back to the island each year and deepening his connection to Taiwanese cuisine. In 2011, he opened Toki Underground, the ramen shop that introduced D.C. to the format and earned Eater D.C.'s Best New Restaurant that same year. Maketto followed, along with multiple James Beard nominations and a reputation as one of the city's most original culinary voices.
In this Chef Series interview, Erik talks about what the kitchen and music have in common, how his Taiwanese American and Cambodian American heritage shapes his cooking, and why the consistency behind Maketto's food comes down to the people, not the systems. He also shares the must-order dishes for a first-time guest and the two words he'd give any chef just starting out.
INKIND: What first drew you into the kitchen, and what continues to inspire you today?
BRUNER-YANG: I've worked in restaurants in nearly every capacity since I was fifteen. My original passion was music -- I played in a variety of bands, and working in restaurants was simply a way to fund that pursuit.
In 2007, I began taking cooking more seriously and moved to Washington, DC to pursue it full time. Somewhere along the way, I realized the kitchen offered the same creative energy I had always chased in music. The rhythm, the collaboration, the immediacy - it all felt familiar, just expressed through a different medium.
What continues to drive me is simple: every day is a chance to create something new, and every service is an opportunity to make someone's day a little better. That sense of purpose still feels as real now as it did when I first stepped into a kitchen.
INKIND: How does your restaurant and menu reflect your heritage?
BRUNER-YANG: My cooking reflects my heritage more in perspective than in strict tradition. I am Taiwanese American and my wife is Cambodian American, and those influences are always present -- but not always in obvious ways. It shows up in how I think about flavor, balance, and the way food is meant to be shared.
At Maketto, the menu moves between Taiwanese, Cambodian, and broader Asian influences, but it's really filtered through my experience growing up in the U.S. and cooking in Washington, DC. I'm not trying to recreate something exactly as it was -- I'm trying to express what those flavors mean to me now.
I think a lot of identity, especially for first-generation Americans, lives in that in-between space. The food becomes a way to navigate that -- honoring where you come from while being honest about where you are.
BRUNER-YANG: I've worked in restaurants in nearly every capacity since I was fifteen. My original passion was music -- I played in a variety of bands, and working in restaurants was simply a way to fund that pursuit.
In 2007, I began taking cooking more seriously and moved to Washington, DC to pursue it full time. Somewhere along the way, I realized the kitchen offered the same creative energy I had always chased in music. The rhythm, the collaboration, the immediacy - it all felt familiar, just expressed through a different medium.
What continues to drive me is simple: every day is a chance to create something new, and every service is an opportunity to make someone's day a little better. That sense of purpose still feels as real now as it did when I first stepped into a kitchen.
INKIND: How does your restaurant and menu reflect your heritage?
BRUNER-YANG: My cooking reflects my heritage more in perspective than in strict tradition. I am Taiwanese American and my wife is Cambodian American, and those influences are always present -- but not always in obvious ways. It shows up in how I think about flavor, balance, and the way food is meant to be shared.
At Maketto, the menu moves between Taiwanese, Cambodian, and broader Asian influences, but it's really filtered through my experience growing up in the U.S. and cooking in Washington, DC. I'm not trying to recreate something exactly as it was -- I'm trying to express what those flavors mean to me now.
I think a lot of identity, especially for first-generation Americans, lives in that in-between space. The food becomes a way to navigate that -- honoring where you come from while being honest about where you are.
INKIND: What's one dish you're especially proud of right now, and why does it matter to you?
BRUNER-YANG: One dish I'm especially proud of right now is our Crispy Gruyère Dumplings. On paper, it's a little unexpected , cheese inside a dumpling, but it really captures how we think about food at Maketto.
It takes a very traditional technique and pushes it slightly out of its comfort zone. You still get the structure and discipline of dumpling-making, but the filling leans into something richer, a little more indulgent, and not tied to any single tradition.
What matters to me is that it feels honest to how I cook. It reflects that in-between space I've always operated in - drawing from Asian techniques, but not being limited by them. It's a dish that's playful, but still requires precision, and I think that balance is what defines our kitchen.
INKIND: For a first-time guest, what's a must-order combo that captures the spirit of your restaurant?
BRUNER-YANG: Spicy Cucumber Salad, Sourdough Scallion Pancake, Crystal Shrimp Dumplings, Wok Fried Rice Noodles.
INKIND: What's something guests might not realize about what happens behind the scenes in your kitchen?
BRUNER-YANG: I think one thing guests might not realize is how much consistency in our kitchen comes from the people, not just the systems. We've been open for eleven years, and many of our cooks have been with us since the beginning.
That kind of longevity is rare in restaurants, and it changes everything. There's a shared language, a level of trust, and an understanding of the food that you can't really teach or replicate quickly. A lot of what we do, especially with something as detail-oriented as dumplings, relies on that experience and repetition over time.
So while guests see the finished dish, what they don't always see is the years of muscle memory and collective knowledge behind it. That's really the foundation of the restaurant
BRUNER-YANG: One dish I'm especially proud of right now is our Crispy Gruyère Dumplings. On paper, it's a little unexpected , cheese inside a dumpling, but it really captures how we think about food at Maketto.
It takes a very traditional technique and pushes it slightly out of its comfort zone. You still get the structure and discipline of dumpling-making, but the filling leans into something richer, a little more indulgent, and not tied to any single tradition.
What matters to me is that it feels honest to how I cook. It reflects that in-between space I've always operated in - drawing from Asian techniques, but not being limited by them. It's a dish that's playful, but still requires precision, and I think that balance is what defines our kitchen.
INKIND: For a first-time guest, what's a must-order combo that captures the spirit of your restaurant?
BRUNER-YANG: Spicy Cucumber Salad, Sourdough Scallion Pancake, Crystal Shrimp Dumplings, Wok Fried Rice Noodles.
INKIND: What's something guests might not realize about what happens behind the scenes in your kitchen?
BRUNER-YANG: I think one thing guests might not realize is how much consistency in our kitchen comes from the people, not just the systems. We've been open for eleven years, and many of our cooks have been with us since the beginning.
That kind of longevity is rare in restaurants, and it changes everything. There's a shared language, a level of trust, and an understanding of the food that you can't really teach or replicate quickly. A lot of what we do, especially with something as detail-oriented as dumplings, relies on that experience and repetition over time.
So while guests see the finished dish, what they don't always see is the years of muscle memory and collective knowledge behind it. That's really the foundation of the restaurant
INKIND: What has partnering with inKind meant for your restaurant and your team?
BRUNER-YANG: Partnering with inKind has been meaningful on a personal level as much as a professional one. I've known the founders since the very beginning of the company, so it's been rewarding to watch their growth and see the impact they've had across the industry.
From a restaurant perspective, they've provided a level of flexibility that's incredibly valuable in a business where cash flow can be unpredictable. But beyond that, it feels like a partnership that understands the realities of running a restaurant -- not just from a financial standpoint, but from an operational and human one as well.
For our team, that kind of support creates a little more breathing room, which ultimately allows us to stay focused on what matters most: taking care of our guests and continuing to evolve what we do.
INKIND: What one piece of advice would you share with a chef or restaurateur just starting out?
BRUNER-YANG: Keep swimming.
This industry is unpredictable, and there are going to be stretches where things feel uncertain or overwhelming. Progress isn't always linear, and not every decision is going to be the right one. What matters is staying in it -- showing up, adjusting, and continuing to move forward.
If you can stay consistent through the highs and lows, you give yourself a chance to build something real over time.
INKIND: When you're not in the kitchen, where do you love to eat or what do you cook for yourself?
BRUNER-YANG: When I'm not in the kitchen, I've actually been making more of an effort to cook at home. Over the past year, I've tried to be more intentional about it -- even coming home late and still putting something together -- just to have a healthier, more balanced routine.
I recently started using Hungryroot, and I've really enjoyed the unpredictability of it. Not knowing exactly what's coming each week forces me to be a little more creative and cook in a way that's less structured than the restaurant.
It's been a nice shift - cooking without the pressure of service, just responding to what's in front of me. In a way, it brings me back to why I started cooking in the first place.
BRUNER-YANG: Partnering with inKind has been meaningful on a personal level as much as a professional one. I've known the founders since the very beginning of the company, so it's been rewarding to watch their growth and see the impact they've had across the industry.
From a restaurant perspective, they've provided a level of flexibility that's incredibly valuable in a business where cash flow can be unpredictable. But beyond that, it feels like a partnership that understands the realities of running a restaurant -- not just from a financial standpoint, but from an operational and human one as well.
For our team, that kind of support creates a little more breathing room, which ultimately allows us to stay focused on what matters most: taking care of our guests and continuing to evolve what we do.
INKIND: What one piece of advice would you share with a chef or restaurateur just starting out?
BRUNER-YANG: Keep swimming.
This industry is unpredictable, and there are going to be stretches where things feel uncertain or overwhelming. Progress isn't always linear, and not every decision is going to be the right one. What matters is staying in it -- showing up, adjusting, and continuing to move forward.
If you can stay consistent through the highs and lows, you give yourself a chance to build something real over time.
INKIND: When you're not in the kitchen, where do you love to eat or what do you cook for yourself?
BRUNER-YANG: When I'm not in the kitchen, I've actually been making more of an effort to cook at home. Over the past year, I've tried to be more intentional about it -- even coming home late and still putting something together -- just to have a healthier, more balanced routine.
I recently started using Hungryroot, and I've really enjoyed the unpredictability of it. Not knowing exactly what's coming each week forces me to be a little more creative and cook in a way that's less structured than the restaurant.
It's been a nice shift - cooking without the pressure of service, just responding to what's in front of me. In a way, it brings me back to why I started cooking in the first place.
About inKind
inKind is the only dining rewards app that gives you up to 20% BACK every time you dine. Download the inKind app to explore and earn inKind Cash Back at Michelin-starred restaurants, cozy neighborhood coffee shops, and even the hottest nightclubs.
At inKind, we believe restaurants are the heartbeat of a city. That’s why we back them — and reward you for doing the same. Our unique model supports restaurants with funding,
marketing support, and more, so every time you dine with inKind, you’re helping restaurants thrive.
As a thank you for supporting the amazing restaurants in our network, we give you 20% back on your meal. No codes, no points, no catches.
At inKind, we believe restaurants are the heartbeat of a city. That’s why we back them — and reward you for doing the same. Our unique model supports restaurants with funding,
marketing support, and more, so every time you dine with inKind, you’re helping restaurants thrive.
As a thank you for supporting the amazing restaurants in our network, we give you 20% back on your meal. No codes, no points, no catches.