INKIND: What inspired you to open your restaurant, and what were some of the biggest challenges you faced along the way?
STEIN: Before opening Alma, I owned two cafés at Johns Hopkins for many years. The cafés had a wonderful reputation for bringing delicious, healthy, full flavor, sustainable menus, made fresh daily by a really nice team. Since we had a clientele that came daily, a section of the menu would change every week, so our guests would never be bored. Those menus would reflect food from all over the world.
When we would make Arepas, Venezuela’s daily bread, they would sell out no matter how many we made. Guests would be so disappointed if they would sell out, which happened every time.
In 2015, I decided to open a Venezuelan restaurant in this city that welcomed me so warmly. Alma Cocina Latina was born. Challenges have always revolved around finances. External circumstances are sometimes the things that kill your business: a challenging location, high crime, the ups and downs of the economy, so one always has to be prepared for the worst.
INKIND: How do you feel your experiences as a woman have shaped your approach to running a restaurant?
STEIN: A philosophy behind the way one runs a place can be the backbone of the place one builds. I was clear from the start that I wanted Alma to be a place where the staff would be happy to go to every day; where ethics mattered, and where respect for each other would be at the core of the business. It has not always been easy to carry on this philosophy, because there is a powerful toxicity that has been commonplace in the food industry.
However, we now have the ideal team, where everyone respects and cares for each other that warm hospitality naturally falls into place.
INKIND: How does your restaurant contribute to the local community, and what role do you see women-owned businesses playing in the community?
STEIN: Alma is not only a place where we serve exceptional food, cocktails and great service. It is a meeting place that brings together Baltimore residents that want to contribute to the eradication of pre-existing racial divides, and that are visionaries in their own field on how to strengthen Baltimore’s future.
During the Pandemic, we were part of World Central Kitchen’s program to feed underserved communities. We cooked 150,000 meals, along with Mera Kitchen Collective, a small, women owned catering business.
INKIND: Did you have any mentors or role models who helped you on your journey?
STEIN: Since I was very little, I was fascinated with women heroes, historical figures, such as Annie Oakley and Joan of Arc. My very first education was at an American school in Caracas, thus Annie Oakley, go figure! When we later moved to Paris at age 7, Joan of Arc became my hero! And of course, my grandmother, who was the definition of kindness and generosity, embraced the concept of magic realism, like the novels of Gabriel Garcia Marquez.
Additionally, my mother (who I referred to as Don Quijote) was always so ahead of her time, despite the limitations heavily imposed on the women of her generation.
INKIND: What advice would you give to other women aspiring to open their own restaurants?
STEIN: Don’t do it unless you admit to yourself that you are a madwoman. Surround yourself with people you trust that can help you in areas of weakness. Unbreakable determination and tenacity to not fail are key.
INKIND: What does Women's History Month mean to you, and how does it feel to be a woman making history in the culinary world?
STEIN: In the society in which we live, the celebration of Women’s History Month is as important as the celebration of Black History Month. Highlighting great figures in history and those who surround us, as well as those who are far away, invite us to celebrate us all for our accomplishments, so that our future generations of women, most importantly our daughters and granddaughters, can grow strong against all odds. I have a daughter and a granddaughter, and that is the legacy that I want to offer.
A woman making history in the culinary world is, again, based on tenacity, on overcoming the difficulties of moving in a majority’s man world.
INKIND: What’s next for you?
STEIN: To give everything that I have built to the next generation, as a legacy.