inKind
WOMEN'S HISTORY MONTH

Women's History Month Spotlight: Alma Cocina Latina

Founder and Creative Director, Irena Stein
In the heart of Baltimore, Alma Cocina Latina stands as a testament to the power of culinary vision and the enduring spirit of its founder, Irena Stein. This Women's History Month, we were honored to chat with Irena, a force of nature in the restaurant world, to delve into the story behind Alma and the remarkable journey that brought it to life.

Irena's story isn't just about opening a restaurant; it's about crafting a cultural haven, a space where the vibrant flavors of Venezuela meet the warmth of Baltimore hospitality. Before Alma, Irena honed her culinary prowess running successful cafes at Johns Hopkins, where her innovative menus and dedication to fresh, sustainable ingredients garnered a loyal following. It was the overwhelming popularity of her arepas that sparked the vision for Alma, a place where she could share the rich culinary heritage of her native Venezuela with a city that had embraced her so warmly.

Opening Alma in 2015 was just the beginning. Irena faced the myriad challenges inherent in the restaurant industry, from financial hurdles to navigating the complexities of a dynamic city. Yet, her unwavering commitment to creating a space where ethics, respect, and community thrived set Alma apart. Working alongside Executive chef Hector Romero, Irena has created a unique and delicious place to dine in Baltimore. In our interview, Irena candidly discusses the importance of fostering a positive work environment, a stark contrast to the often-toxic culture prevalent in the culinary world. She reveals how her personal philosophy, shaped by her experiences as a woman, has been the cornerstone of Alma's success.

Alma has become a vital community hub, a place where diverse residents come together, and a platform for impactful initiatives like partnering with World Central Kitchen to provide thousands of meals during the pandemic.

Irena's inspiration draws from a rich tapestry of sources, from historical female figures who defied expectations to the profound influence of her own family. Her grandmother's embrace of magical realism and her mother's pioneering spirit have instilled in her a sense of wonder and a drive to challenge the status quo. In this interview, she shares her invaluable advice for aspiring female restaurateurs, emphasizing the necessity of unwavering determination and surrounding oneself with a trusted team.

As we celebrate Women's History Month, Irena's story serves as a powerful reminder of the resilience, vision, and transformative impact of women in the culinary world. Her legacy, she hopes, will inspire future generations, particularly her daughter and granddaughter, to pursue their dreams with tenacity and grace.

Join us as we explore the heart and soul of Alma Cocina Latina and the extraordinary woman behind it.
INKIND: What inspired you to open your restaurant, and what were some of the biggest challenges you faced along the way?

STEIN: Before opening Alma, I owned two cafés at Johns Hopkins for many years. The cafés had a wonderful reputation for bringing delicious, healthy, full flavor, sustainable menus, made fresh daily by a really nice team. Since we had a clientele that came daily, a section of the menu would change every week, so our guests would never be bored. Those menus would reflect food from all over the world.

When we would make Arepas, Venezuela’s daily bread, they would sell out no matter how many we made. Guests would be so disappointed if they would sell out, which happened every time.

In 2015, I decided to open a Venezuelan restaurant in this city that welcomed me so warmly. Alma Cocina Latina was born. Challenges have always revolved around finances. External circumstances are sometimes the things that kill your business: a challenging location, high crime, the ups and downs of the economy, so one always has to be prepared for the worst.

INKIND: How do you feel your experiences as a woman have shaped your approach to running a restaurant?

STEIN: A philosophy behind the way one runs a place can be the backbone of the place one builds. I was clear from the start that I wanted Alma to be a place where the staff would be happy to go to every day; where ethics mattered, and where respect for each other would be at the core of the business. It has not always been easy to carry on this philosophy, because there is a powerful toxicity that has been commonplace in the food industry.

However, we now have the ideal team, where everyone respects and cares for each other that warm hospitality naturally falls into place.

INKIND: How does your restaurant contribute to the local community, and what role do you see women-owned businesses playing in the community?

STEIN: Alma is not only a place where we serve exceptional food, cocktails and great service. It is a meeting place that brings together Baltimore residents that want to contribute to the eradication of pre-existing racial divides, and that are visionaries in their own field on how to strengthen Baltimore’s future.

During the Pandemic, we were part of World Central Kitchen’s program to feed underserved communities. We cooked 150,000 meals, along with Mera Kitchen Collective, a small, women owned catering business.

INKIND: Did you have any mentors or role models who helped you on your journey?

STEIN: Since I was very little, I was fascinated with women heroes, historical figures, such as Annie Oakley and Joan of Arc. My very first education was at an American school in Caracas, thus Annie Oakley, go figure! When we later moved to Paris at age 7, Joan of Arc became my hero! And of course, my grandmother, who was the definition of kindness and generosity, embraced the concept of magic realism, like the novels of Gabriel Garcia Marquez.

Additionally, my mother (who I referred to as Don Quijote) was always so ahead of her time, despite the limitations heavily imposed on the women of her generation.

INKIND: What advice would you give to other women aspiring to open their own restaurants?

STEIN: Don’t do it unless you admit to yourself that you are a madwoman. Surround yourself with people you trust that can help you in areas of weakness. Unbreakable determination and tenacity to not fail are key.

INKIND: What does Women's History Month mean to you, and how does it feel to be a woman making history in the culinary world?

STEIN: In the society in which we live, the celebration of Women’s History Month is as important as the celebration of Black History Month. Highlighting great figures in history and those who surround us, as well as those who are far away, invite us to celebrate us all for our accomplishments, so that our future generations of women, most importantly our daughters and granddaughters, can grow strong against all odds. I have a daughter and a granddaughter, and that is the legacy that I want to offer.

A woman making history in the culinary world is, again, based on tenacity, on overcoming the difficulties of moving in a majority’s man world.

INKIND: What’s next for you?

STEIN: To give everything that I have built to the next generation, as a legacy.